Відео

Can you point me to the soldering iron stand you have that is attached to your pinecil? That seems incredibly convenient, but I can't find anything like it anywhere.

I'm curious why you actually need a preheater. I own a preheater and I only use it to remove very large QFP chips on arcade boards, which is maybe once a year. My set-up also has a top heater because back heating alone isn't enough. If you are going to reflow a southbridge bga or something similar you'll also need heat from the top. Bear in mind most BGA chips on motherboards do not come loose.... the problem is a failed /shorted chip that would need to be removed and replaced. If you are going to use it like you did in the video just to heat it so that you can more easily desolder through-hole parts it's actually better to just heat the small area you need to work on with hot air. Also be careful about putting boards upside-down because there's lots of plastic connectors on boards and they will melt. Also, if you desolder small parts while on the pre-heater be careful they don't drop down into the heater element heh!

😎👍

Ghostbusters 🥰🥰🥰🥰🥰🤗

trade show demo unit schools, government , business, Dos to windows 3.11

OMG the coolest cartridge ever!

👍

Needs a floppy 💾

I kind of hated this game because I was always broke in the end. lol

I love my 1702, but the focus voltage is all over the place once it warms up. It really needs a new flyback but nobody makes them anymore.

nice I like seeing inside of CRT monitors, super interesting.

15:05 fun fact while you’re programming that EPROM… HES (Home Entertainment Supplies) in Australia released a licensed version of Ghostbusters on cartridge along with several other C64 games (eg Wonderboy, Leaderboard, Kung Fu Master). It’s a bit unusual, in that it loads and then unpacks itself into RAM taking about 12 seconds to complete.. A bit quicker than the disk or tape versions, and not an easy cart to find on ePay!

If you are experimenting with video length. For me the magic number is ~25 minutes. 25 minutes just seems to fit into my schedule more. I know short vs long videos is a battle ground now. I'm on YT for long videos, because I have the attention span.

1702 has much better colors than other commodore monitors if it has a JVC (I think it was JVC, might be Phillips) tube. Same with the 1902 for 80 columns. The other monitors are very washed out looking and don't have very good saturation.

The 17-series monitors are all on life support. The flyback was not copied by HRDiemen therefore not available new so when the flyback dies it's game over permenently. For logic, the modern type is HCT and that's what you should buy if getting new chips from places like mouser etc.

Reinforcing your CRT warning! Got zapped by a tube today. It’s not fun!

I wonder if a 'magic eraser' (melamine) would have taken that white stuff off of the monitor? I don't know though, it may have removed the brown under it though.. that would have been bad, but I don't know the melamine works REALLY well for stuff like that.

Always fascinating!

Hm. My 1701 has a fine-pitch shadowmask (and I have stacks of TVs to compare it to). Eons ago I was given a C128D with some games, a printer and said 1701. And when I found out that through an adapter I could hook it to my VCR and watch TV and the picture was a lot better than my cheap TV (sharper AND brighter), I pretty much stopped using my regular TV (which didn't like that and died). It's probably all black inside from the hours of use. Just a few years later I snatched a 1802 for a tenner and was disappointed that it had a regular pitch shadowmask. It also felt cheap, looked cheap and had a cheap picture - exactly like my cheap old TV when it was still working.

74HC273 might work as replacement but why bother when the 74HCT273 is just as easy to get AND is guaranteed to work? (that's what the T in the model name stands for).

Nice work, as always. That appears to be the more rare 1702T variant. I have a regular 1702 and it does not use the Toshiba tube. It also does not have all that metal shielding, IIRC. I think it is mostly the same but according to the Service Manual there are some differences in components to accommodate. As for logic chips, HC chips are High Speed CMOS. The C64 uses TTL levels so although they tend to work they could cause problems due to the nature of what is a low and a high level in TTL vs CMOS. HCT chips are what you want for TTL levels. I usually just use LS chips as they seem to be the cheapest and do use less power compared to non LS. I am simplifying this from an article some engineer wrote that is way over my head. ;-). If you look on melon64 forums there is a great explanation that is easier to understand then engineer speak.

Great job you did. Steven is now working on a Amiga 500 for a customer. Have a nice and safe trip. See you next week we hope. Greetings from Steven from the Netherlands

Very nice cart

Good job !

Colour CRTs often have a dark treatment and sometimes anti-reflective coatings on the glass to improve contrast. Several CRT makers in the late 1970s also worked on phosphor formulations which absorb less incident light to improve black levels- hence the term "black stripe".

Isopropanol will dissolve some plastics.

Ah nice way to relax after cursing out the 3 Xboxes in my workshop which I somehow broke 🤣

Can you give more details on the floss and spacebar?

That looks like a VGA monitor, what are you using to connect the C64 to it?

It's common to polish metal rods down with sandpaper in a lathe or pedestal drill to get closer fits. Before 3D printers I would've filed/hacksawed an alum flatbar to make brackets like in that hinge, ie, I'm a metal worker/machinist.

Three questions(I have for all these awful stations): Are the control electronics in the same enclosure as the heater? Do the control electronics use solder to hold their components together? Isn't this designed to heat up enough to melt solder?

Some 15+ years ago Aoyue was a pretty nice soldering iron brand, i mean yeah Hakko clones but they were a little nicer made than the rest. I don't know if they got worse or whether you got a special lemon, or whether not all product categories are made to the same standard because they aren't actually built by the same people, but perhaps there's a reason why there was a special deal on this unit. Could it have been returned by a prior customer? Rumour has it Rifa fixed their quality issues eventually but then who knows whether those Rifas are from before or after...

What about a 68B54 like that used in the BBC Model B.

If only there was a RTS connecting to the CTS and DTR was connected to DCD and THRE then things would work would they not.

Hey Epic, I just came got my hands on a ps/1 consultant (the 1992 2133-g43 variant with 2 sockests and 2 bios chips). I just bought a DX4ODP75 hoping to bump up the specs a bit. I also have a shuttle HOT-419 I think it will work in if it doesn't work out in the consultant. Do you know if the changes you were hoping to see have been added to any socketblaster projects yet?

finally someone who installed Windows and not crappy Linux

Its almost a DIY Kit :P

Great video. Subbed.

At least the inside of the preheater looked like generally good design … even if the assembly wasn’t great.

Hi, did you delete the previous parts? I can't find them on your channel

Looked like a hvac system in the thumbnail

Very old solder does not always unsolder nicely under a desoldering gun. Continually raising the temp us not the solution, you will burn out the board. Adding new solder to refresh the joint almost always allows the desoldering gun to work properly without overheating.

Dude, I love your videos BUT you sound like you are one of dose guys from UK that has this accent that sounds like his answering his own questions. LOL. Keep doing what you are doing, awesome.

I made my own preheater using a used warming tray I bought at a thrift store. To regulate its temperature, I also bought an LED adjustable temperature controller with a probe from Amazon. I attached the probe internally to the tray's surface with high temperature epoxy and soldered its wires to an RCA jack which I mounted through a drilled hole on the side of the tray's housing. I put the controller PCB inside a small enclosure with cutouts for its LED display and buttons. The temperature isn't perfectly regulated, but brings the board to temperature for difficult desoldering jobs.

Nice job and great content. keep up the good job. Greetings from Steven from the Netherlands

"QC" in this case refers to "Quack Confirmation" - they put the unit in front of a duck, and if the duck goes "Quack!" the sticker goes on the product, and the duck gets a treat. Remarkably, the duck always seems to go "Quack!". 🦆

Fortunately, anyone buying that preheater probably knows how to fix it. Lol

in the world of 3d printing that used to be a normal variance for filament. Now days it's down to +/- 0.05 or even 0.03 in some cases.